Right now, we’re all about trench coats, over-the-knee boots, apple cider donuts, changing leaves, and Pumpkintown (if you haven’t been, trust us—it’s a hot spot!). And, don’t get us wrong—we love autumn, but after fall comes winter. And, we we’re not a fan. To mitigate our soon-to-come seasonal depression, we followed Hart Hagerty, designer and owner of HART Studio (home to our favorite topknot statement earrings), on her recent vacation to Majorca, Spain. Hart let us tag along on her four-day escape and fill us in on all of the best restaurants, beaches, and shopping this little Spanish island has to offer—not to mention the perfect pair of statement earrings to match each and every occasion. (The collection of tassel earrings featured here will be on sale on October 25th, so mark your calendars!).
Upon landing in Palma, we immediately picked up our rental car. As my hostess explained, “You can drive anywhere in Majorca in about an hour.” We were fortunate enough to snag one of the very last automatics. Whew—crisis avoided!
Palma is Majorca’s main port, and every day, thousands of tourists flock into a charming labyrinth of narrow alleyways lined with little shops. I beelined it to Rialto Living, a gorgeous concept store for interiors, fashion, art, and gifts thoughtfully curated by the chic Swede Barbara Bergman. My next stop was Olivar Market, a local market that’s a food lover’s dream. We took our time perusing local vendors for sausages, jamon iberico, olives, and cheese to take as a picnic on our afternoon adventure.
After exploring the city, we escaped the crowds of Palma with a quick one-hour drive to a beach called Cala D’Egos in the small town of Andratx in the South West. The GPS led us up a narrow winding road to the edge of a steep cliff. We precariously parked our car on the precipice and began a 30-minute descent down a dusty, rocky road with the sun shining overhead. Continuing through the pines we were greeted by a pebble beach, with sailboats and yachts gently bobbing offshore in crystal clear waters. We spent a languid afternoon swimming and snorkeling. The colors of the water and the dancing light totally captivated my senses.
Of course there’s more to Majorca than beautiful beaches. The next morning we drove further north through undulating valleys, terraces, and cedar-topped hills to the picturesque, quiet villages of Deia and Veldemossa. Here, artists, poets and musicians have made their homes for decades. Try to visit Valdemossa on Sunday, when the local market is open to buy the woven basket bags (a la Jane Birkin). We spent the morning wandering Valdemossa’s sleepy stone paths lined with blackberry bushes and trees drooping with big ripe figs.
A visit to La Residencia Hotel in Deia is a must. This luxury hotel is nestled into the mountainside with immaculate grounds, a world-class spa and beautiful restaurants. We had a fresh seafood lunch at the hotel’s El Olivo, surrounded by a gallery of Miro Paintings (my family’s favorite painter and the name of my niece).
After lunch, we drove down the steep descent to Cala De Deia, a small but popular pebble beach. On the day we visited, the water was too rough to swim, but we relaxed on top of the gigantic rocks, overlooking the cove. You can linger late into the afternoon and evening at one of the two shack-like restaurants serving gorgeous fresh local fish and cold beer.
The next day we traversed across the south of the island to Cala Pi. In this popular cove, it was hard to find a spot for our blankets amongst the umbrellas. Overlooking the crowded beach from atop the cliff, I was reminded of a Gray Malin photograph. Crowded, lively, and full of European families, we didn’t stay too long before heading back to Palma to embark on our sailing tour.
Our afternoon sailing gave us a break from the crowds. Be warned . . . many sailing tours stuff dozens of people on one boat. Instead of a bigger group tour, a local recommended the company Oasis, which lives up to its name. The spacious catamaran holds 60, but they cap it at 30 to provide a relaxed, private feel. We toured the bay of Palma, stopping at caves to snorkel, cliff jump, and relax on hidden beaches. Drinking aperol spritzers and wine, we had a beautiful afternoon and evening sailing across the bay.
We reserved our biggest adventure for our last day in Majorca. Nearby the town of Alcudia in the Northwestern Peninsula is a unspoiled beach called Coll Baix, which is only accessible by foot (or boat if you’re lucky). Hiking along the fragrant pine forests with panoramic views of the sea, it reminded me a lot of Big Sur in California. The trail eventually disappears and the brave have to scramble down a somewhat dangerous rocky cliffside, alongside mountain goats. This trip is better suited for adventurous active couples rather than young families. The rocky trek, however, rewards you generously with a stunning, expansive pebble beach tucked in between two towering cliffs. We shared the beach with just a few other hikers and some goats who try to steal the picnic we packed along. It was a perfect ending to an unforgettable trip!
Photos: Courtesy of Hart Hagerty
Edited By: Anna Mack